How do I glue a PVC stormwater pipe together?

December 8, 2024

Gluing PVC stormwater pipe looks like a job you could do without reading anything, and mostly you can, but the joints that fail nearly always fail for the same reason, which is that somebody skipped the primer or didn't get the pipe pushed all the way into the fitting before the cement grabbed. So here's the order I'd do it in, because the order is really the whole trick.

Get the right glue for stormwater

Stormwater is non-pressure pipe, so the cement you want is Type N, which is the blue one. The green Type P is made for pressure pipe and it isn't what this job needs. You'll also want the red priming fluid, because the cement is only half of the system and it relies on the primer to do its job.

Cut it square and clean the ends

Cut the pipe square with a fine-tooth saw, because a cut on an angle leaves a gap at the bottom of the socket where the pipe never actually touches. Then take the burr off the inside and the outside of the cut with a blade or a file, since a lip of swarf on the outside scrapes the cement off as the pipe goes in. New pipe doesn't need sanding, so just wipe off any dirt and make sure both surfaces are dry.

Dry fit it and mark it

Push the joint together dry first to check it all lines up, then draw a line across the pipe and the fitting with a marker so you know exactly where it has to end up. It's worth marking how deep the pipe goes into the socket as well, because once the cement is on you won't have time to work it out.

Prime, then cement straight away

Brush the primer onto the outside of the pipe as far as it'll go into the fitting, and around the inside of the socket. The primer softens and cleans the PVC so the cement can weld the two pieces together rather than just sit between them. While the primer is still wet, brush an even coat of cement onto the same two surfaces.

Push it home and hold it

Push the pipe all the way into the fitting in one go with about a quarter turn so your marks line up. Hold it there for around 30 seconds, because a fresh joint has a habit of pushing itself back out a little if you let go too soon. A small bead of cement around the joint is normal, so wipe off anything that's run.

Leave it alone for long enough

The handling time and the time before water can go through it are both printed on the tin. Both get longer on a cold day, so check the tin rather than guessing. Don't backfill over a joint you've only just made, and keep the lids on the tins between joints because the solvent evaporates fast.

Work safely with the solvent

Primer and cement are both flammable and the fumes build up quickly in a trench or a shed, so work with plenty of air moving and nothing alight nearby. Gloves are worth it as well, because the primer stains skin and it doesn't come off in a hurry.

If you're fixing a run that's already cracked in the ground, there's more on cutting out the bad section and using a slip coupling in how to repair a broken stormwater pipe.

Shop related products

Plumma's Blue Glue Type N PVC Solvent Cement, 250ml. The cement for non-pressure work like stormwater.
Plumma's Red Priming Fluid PVC Pipe Primer, 250ml. It goes on first so the cement can bond.
Plumma's Red Priming Fluid PVC Pipe Primer, 500ml. The bigger tin if you've got a long run to join.
Supercraft Junior Hacksaw, Heavy Duty 150mm. Cuts the pipe square down in a trench.

Did you know we also stock 75mm and 90mm stormwater pipe in the shop along with the elbows and couplings to go with it. Most of the fittings aren't on the website, so give us a ring on (08) 8536 4333 to check what's on the shelf.

Pipe in 6 metre lengths was never going to fit in most cars, so we deliver for $5 around Strathalbyn and $10 on the regional run. The days and towns are on the local delivery page. More of the range is in plumbing.