How to maintain a drip system so it keeps working

Drip systems fail quietly, and that's the problem

When a sprinkler fails you see it, because there's a fountain where there should be a fan, or a dry patch you can spot from the back door. When a dripper blocks, nothing happens. The system still hums and the timer still runs, while one plant slowly goes backwards and you wonder what's wrong with it.

That's the whole case for maintenance on a drip line. It isn't much work, and it's the difference between a system that keeps doing the job and one that degrades into an expensive length of pipe.

Walk the line while it's running

The single most useful habit, and it takes five minutes. Turn the system on by hand, then walk the whole run and look at every emitter.

You're checking that each one is dripping rather than dry, that none has popped out of the line and is squirting, that nothing is pooling, and that the wet patches are where the plants are. Plants move, plants die, plants get replaced with something bigger, and a line laid two years ago is often watering a gap now.

Do it at the start of the warm season and once in the middle of it. That's the whole schedule.

Flush the line

Fine silt travels down the pipe and settles at the far end, and that's where blockages start. Once a season, take the end cap or the flush valve off the end of each run, let the system push water through at full flow for a minute until it runs clear, then cap it again.

If it never runs clear, or it clogs again quickly, the water going in is the problem and a filter on the tap is the fix.

Clean the filter, because there should be one

Almost every drip system sold comes with a filter, and almost nobody cleans it. Unscrew it, rinse the screen under a tap, put it back. If yours has no filter, that's the single best upgrade you can make to it, because emitters have very small openings and anything that reaches them will eventually sit in one.

On tank or bore water this matters much more than on mains, since there's more in the water to catch.

Blocked emitters, and what to do

A dripper that has stopped is usually blocked by silt or by mineral scale. Pull it out of the line and soak it in a cup of vinegar for an hour, which shifts scale, then flush it with a syringe of water. Some come apart and can be cleaned properly.

Honestly though, a pinch dripper costs very little, and if you have a handful blocked it's quicker to replace them than to rescue them. Keep a small bag of spares with the timer batteries so a repair takes two minutes rather than a trip to town.

The jobs nobody thinks of

  • Timer batteries. Change them once a year on a date you'll remember, because a dead battery in a tap timer fails closed and you find out when something wilts.
  • Sun damage. Poly line left on top of mulch goes brittle in a few summers. Under the mulch it lasts for years.
  • Root intrusion. Roots will find a wet emitter and grow into it. If one keeps blocking at the same spot, move it rather than keep clearing it.
  • Pressure. Drip line wants low pressure. If you have added runs since it was set up, everything downstream is getting less than it was.
  • Winter. Drain the line before a cold snap if you get frost, and pull the batteries out of the timer if it isn't going to run for months.

When to give up on a section

Poly line is cheap and time isn't. If a run is brittle, patched in four places and blocking constantly, replacing that section is a smaller job than the one you keep doing on it, and the new line will sit under mulch out of the sun and last for years.

Shop related products

Did you know we keep pinch drippers, micro sprinklers, poly line, in line filters, soaker hose and a range of tap timers in the shop, and much of it isn't listed online. Give us a ring on (08) 8536 4333 to check what's on the shelf, and the garden centre range is worth a browse too.

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Still the person who finds the blocked dripper by noticing the sad plant first, rather than the other way round.

Cheers,
Candeece

Candeece at Strathalbyn H Hardware

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