Why the same beer kit gives you a different beer every time
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Same tin, different beer
The thing that catches people out with kit brewing isn't the first batch, because the first batch is usually fine and everybody's pleased with it. It's batch three, when you've done exactly what you did the first two times and opened a bottle of something that tastes like a different beer entirely, and there's no obvious mistake to point at.
Nothing has gone wrong. A beer kit gives you a fixed starting point and then hands the rest of the job to a living thing, and living things respond to their conditions, so the same tin genuinely will give you a different beer depending on what the week was like.
Fermentation temperature does most of it
If you only ever control one thing, control this one, because it moves the flavour further than anything else on the list.
Ale yeast at the cool end of its range gives you a clean beer that tastes mostly of malt and hops. The same yeast a few degrees warmer starts throwing esters, which read as banana, pear drops or apple, and warmer still you get fusel alcohols, which read as solvent and give you a headache out of proportion to what you drank.
The trap is that a shed doesn't hold a temperature. It might be 12 degrees at 5am and 30 degrees at 3pm, and the yeast experiences all of that. Worse, fermentation generates its own heat, so the liquid inside the fermenter runs a few degrees above the room during the busy first days, which is exactly when the yeast is deciding what your beer will taste like.
Put the fermenter somewhere with a stable temperature rather than a comfortable average. Inside the house beats the shed. A tub of water around the fermenter evens out the swings for nothing. A heater belt does the cold end of the job and we keep those in the shop.
The other things that move, in rough order
- What you fermented with. Plain sugar, dextrose, a brew enhancer and dry malt all give a different body and a different finish from the same tin.
- How old the yeast was. The sachet under the lid has been sitting in a warehouse. An old or heat stressed sachet starts slowly, and a slow start lets other things get a foothold.
- How long you left it. Bottling at day 5 because the bubbling stopped gives you a different beer from bottling at day 10, and usually a worse one.
- Bottle conditioning time and temperature. Two weeks at 12 degrees is not the same as two weeks at 25.
- How clean the gear was. This one isn't a variable so much as a coin flip, and it's the only one on the list that can cost you the whole batch.
Change one thing at a time
This is the bit that turns brewing from guessing into learning, and it costs nothing.
If you change the sugar and the yeast and the ferment temperature all in one batch and the beer comes out better, you've learnt nothing useful, because you don't know which change did it and you can't repeat it. Change one thing, keep everything else as close to last time as you can manage, and taste the difference. Three or four batches of that and you'll know your own setup better than any article can tell you.
Write four numbers down
You don't need a spreadsheet or an app. Four numbers on the side of the fermenter with a marker will do the whole job: what you added besides the tin, the highest temperature you saw during the ferment, the day you bottled, and the day you first drank one.
When a batch comes out well, those four numbers are the recipe. When one comes out badly, they're the diagnosis. A hydrometer reading at the start and the end is the fifth number and it's worth having, because it's the only way to know a ferment has actually finished rather than just gone quiet.
Shop related products
- Coopers Brew Enhancer 2 1kg. Malt and dextrose blend, a more consistent starting point than plain sugar.
- Coopers Light Dry Malt 500g. For more body and better head retention than sugar gives.
- S-04 Safale Ale Yeast 11.5g. A fresh sachet instead of whatever has been under the lid since the warehouse.
- S23 Saflager Lager Yeast 11.5g. For anyone trying to hold a lager cold.
Did you know we also stock the brewing gear that never makes it onto the website, including 30 and 60 litre fermenters, a hydrometer and test jar, airlocks, heater belts, bench and hammer cappers and carbonation drops. Give us a ring on (08) 8536 4333 to check what's on the shelf.
More in the beer supplies range, and Brewhilder will talk you through a batch if you'd rather ask than read.
Read next
- How to keep a fermenter at the right temperature. The practical version of the biggest variable above.
- How much sugar goes into a beer kit, and what more of it does. The second variable, on its own.
- How to take your homebrewing from kit to craft. Where to go once your batches match each other.
I write my numbers on the fermenter in marker and then wash them off before I've read them, so learn from that one.
Cheers,
Candeece

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