Replacing a Bathroom Exhaust Fan, and Which Part Needs an Electrician
A bathroom exhaust fan that rattles, or one that runs and still leaves the mirror fogged, is worth sorting before the damp gets into the ceiling, and most of the job is working out what's actually wrong and choosing the right replacement. The one part that isn't yours is the wiring, because a fan is wired into your mains and in South Australia that's licensed electrical work, so the swap itself belongs to a licensed electrician.
I'm not being precious about that. A bathroom is the wettest room in the house and the worst place to find out a connection wasn't right, and unlicensed electrical work can also cause you grief with your insurer if anything goes wrong later.
Work out what's failed
Turn the fan on and listen to it. A grinding or rattling motor usually means the fan itself is on its way out, and a fan that sounds healthy while the steam just hangs about is more often a ducting problem, either a flexible duct that's squashed or come loose, or one that was never run to the outside and has been blowing wet air into the roof space.
That's worth knowing before you buy anything, because a new fan on a blocked duct won't clear the room any faster than the old one did.
Clean it before you condemn it
Switch the fan's circuit off at the switchboard rather than just at the wall switch, and the grille usually pulls down or unclips from there. A lot of tired fans are simply choked with fluff, so it's worth vacuuming the grille and the blades you can reach and giving the grille a wash in warm soapy water before you decide the fan is finished.
That's as far in as you go. Everything behind the grille runs off the mains, so the wiring stays exactly where it is.
Choosing the replacement
While the grille's off, take a photo of the old unit and its model number, and measure the hole in the ceiling, because a fan that fits the existing cut out is a much smaller job than one that needs the hole made bigger. It's also worth checking whether the old fan was ducted to the outside or just vented into the roof, because a ducted fan is the one that actually gets the damp out of the house.
HPM is the electrical range we carry, so bring your measurements and your photo into the shop and we'll check a fan against your opening before you book anybody.
Then book the electrician
Have the new fan sitting on the vanity when the electrician arrives, because it's a short visit when the part's already there. While they're up in the ceiling, ask them to check the duct runs to an outside vent and isn't kinked on the way, since that one check is the difference between a fan that clears the room and a fan that just makes noise.
Keeping it working
Give the grille a vacuum every few months, and leave the fan running for 10 to 15 minutes after a shower rather than switching it off with the light, because the room is still full of moisture when you walk out of it.
Shop related products
- Hard Unit Head Lamp, USB Rechargeable. Both hands free when you're up the ladder with the power off.
- Hard Unit Aluminium Torch, Small. For reading the model number off the old unit.
- Supercraft Slotted Screwdriver, 5 x 100mm. For the grille clips and the cover screws.
- Heavy Duty Blue Plastic Drop Sheet. Catches the dust when the grille comes down.
Did you know we also stock the HPM round exhaust fan in white, 250mm, in the shop, and it isn't on the website. Give us a ring on (08) 8536 4333 to check one's on the shelf, and the rest of the range is in electrical.
Keep reading
- How to fix a loose toilet seat so it stays tight
- Essential tools every first time homeowner should have
I'm a big believer in knowing exactly where my job stops, and with anything wired into the house it stops at the switchboard.
Cheers,
Candeece
Stay Connected
Follow our Facebook Page: Strathalbyn H Hardware on Facebook
