Can you replace a garden tool handle instead of the tool
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The head is usually still fine
When a shovel or a mattock gives up, it's nearly always the handle that's gone rather than the steel, because timber is the part that sits out in the weather and takes the shock, and the forged head it's attached to will often outlast two or three handles without complaining. That's worth knowing before you put the whole thing out for hard rubbish.
Replacement handles are a real product you can buy on their own, and Cyclone make them for rakes, mattocks, hatchets, shovels, axes, block splitters and hoes. We carry them in the shop, which surprises people who assumed a broken tool was simply finished.
When it's worth doing
It's worth it when the head is a decent forged one that's still tight and unpitted, because that's where the money in a good tool actually sits. It's worth it when the tool is old and you like it, which is a perfectly reasonable answer on its own.
It's also worth doing the arithmetic rather than assuming. A handle costs a fraction of a new tool, so if the head has years left in it then replacing the handle is obviously the better call, but on a cheap pressed-steel head that's already bending, you're putting good timber into something that'll fail somewhere else soon enough.
And be honest about your own time, because that counts too. Fitting a handle is half an hour of fiddling if you've done it before, and a fair bit longer if you haven't, so on a very cheap tool the sums sometimes just don't land in favour of the repair.
Judging the head before you buy a handle
Look at where the handle meets the head first, because that's where the damage hides. Surface rust is nothing and cleans off. Deep pitting around the eye or the socket is different, since that's the bit taking all the load, and a head that's thinned there will let go again.
Check the steel for cracks radiating out from the eye. A hairline there means the head is done regardless of what you fit to it.
Getting the right one
Handles aren't universal, so the honest advice is to bring the head in with you rather than trying to match it off a photo. The eye shape and the taper vary between tools, and a handle that's nearly right is a handle that works loose in a season.
While you're at it, a tool that's had a new handle fitted is a good candidate for a proper sharpen, and there's a rundown of that in How to sharpen and look after your garden tools.
Shop related products
- Brunnings Easy Wetta Potting Mix 70L. For once the digging is done.
- Naturally Good Mushroom Compost 25L. Worth turning through a tired bed.
- Brunnings Blood and Bone Based Fertiliser 5kg. A slow feed while you're in there.
- Neutrog Sudden Impact for Roses 1.5kg. After a hard prune.
The rest of it sits in our garden centre collection, and the garden centre itself is worth a wander when you're in.
Did you know we keep Cyclone replacement handles in the shop for rakes, mattocks, hatchets, shovels, axes, block splitters and hoes, along with Cyclone spades, forks and bypass pruners, and none of the hand tools are on the website. Give us a ring on (08) 8536 4333 to check what is on the shelf.
Read next
- How to sharpen and look after your garden tools
- Why cheap garden tools cost more in the long run
- The tools a new gardener actually needs
I'm sentimental about an old spade in a way that I can't really defend, and I'd rather re-handle it than admit it owes me nothing.
Candeece

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