Selleys Wood Filler won't save bad prep—and neither will a fan-favourite stain stain job.

Selleys Wood Filler won't save bad prep—and neither will a fan-favourite stain stain job.

Don’t Stain Over What You Can Fix: The Right Way to Patch Timber

Restore worn timber like a pro before staining — skip this step and regret it later

Timber stain is like your best going-out shirt — looks slick, but only if everything underneath is cleaned up right. And just like you wouldn’t iron over a crumpled mess, you don’t stain over rough gouges, chips, or gaps in your timber. Preparing your timber properly doesn’t just make it look better — it helps the stain bond evenly and stand the test of time.

This guide shows you how to patch and sand timber surfaces the right way — whether you’re reviving a tired outdoor bench, sprucing up fence palings, or giving an old desk a second shot at glory. We're talking better stain coverage, sharper finishes, and fewer regrets.

Why Your Surface Prep Dictates the End Result

Ever seen a stain job go patchy? Odds are, the prep work was rushed or skipped altogether. Uneven absorption, shadowy lines, or flaky finishes often trace back to unpatched holes or poor sanding.

“Stain isn’t paint — it soaks in, not sits on top. Any flaw in the timber? It’ll show.” 

Whether your timber’s new but a bit rough, or old and battle-worn, you’ve got to start with these golden steps:

Step 1: Identify Marks, Holes or Dents First

Run your hand across the timber’s surface in direct light. Look (and feel) for:

  • Deep nail holes
  • Old screw marks
  • Splinters, chips, or dings
  • Cracks from sun or moisture
  • Uneven grain patterns

Mark them lightly with a pencil — you’ll come back to fill these before sanding.

Step 2: Choose the Right Timber Filler

Use a quality wood filler that matches the type of wood and will accept stain later. Some quick tips:

  • Water-based fillers are easy to clean and dry fast.
  • Solvent-based fillers give a tougher finish and work better for external timber.
  • Wood putty is great for tiny touch-ups but usually won’t take stain evenly — use it for painted finishes instead.

Pro tip: Test a dab of your stain on a scrap of the filled surface first. Some fillers go darker or lighter than you’d expect.

Step 3: Apply Filler Like a Pro

Scoop a small amount with a putty knife and push it into each hole, pressing firmly. Smooth the surface flush — the flatter it is now, the less sanding later.

  • Work in small patches, so the filler doesn’t dry out.
  • Don’t worry if it overfills slightly — better more than less.
  • Let it cure fully (check the product label — usually 30 mins to a few hours).

Step 4: Sanding — The Make or Break

This is where most people go too rough, too fast, or not far enough. Start with 120 grit and finish with 180 or 220 grit for smoother surfaces. Here’s how:

  1. Always sand with the grain. Never across it.
  2. If you’re using an orbital sander, keep it moving in slow, even strokes — don’t push too hard.
  3. Use a sanding block on edges or handrails for more control.
  4. After sanding, wipe the timber clean with a tack cloth or damp rag to remove dust.

Some older tradies will tell you flat-out: “You stain what you sand.” That means any scratch, swirl, or missed grit will show under the stain — no matter how good the product is.

Before You Stain: Do the Spirit Test

Want to know what your stain might look like? Wipe the timber with methylated spirits. It momentarily brings out the grain, mimicking how stain will absorb across highs and lows.

If the grain pops evenly and there’s no blotching or filler glare — you’re ready. If something still looks off? Give it one last sand, and don’t rush it.

One More Thing: Moisture Matters

Staining timber that’s damp — even slightly — is how you end up with peeling, flaking finishes. Let decks and outdoor timber dry for a day or two after rain. You want it bone dry. That’s when stain really sinks in deep and lasts longer out in the weather.

Used to Be a Guess – Now It’s Skill

Back in the day, a dodgy stain job meant re-sanding the whole deck and trying again… weeks later. Now? You patch smart, sand once properly and stain with confidence. It’s a 3-hour job that saves you 3 days of do-overs.

There’s something deeply satisfying about a rich, even timber stain — it’s like putting a fresh engine in an old ute. Still the same bones, just better than ever.

Treat your next timber project like it matters. Because it does.

Catch you in the aisles,
Candeece

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